Refrigerator Repair. Not Cooling – Causes and Solutions.
Imagine a situation: you open the fridge to take out your cold drink or dinner, but what you get is a warm meal, a puddle in the fridge, spoiled food, and extreme stress. What to do with the spoiled food and how to bring the fridge back to life? In this article, we will consider the common reasons for a fridge not cooling and suggest practical advice for correcting the issue together with our fridge repairman who will help me to get into the details of this topic.
11 reasons for a fridge not working or cooling poorly
Loose plug or faulty socket
We recommend checking the most basic things before calling a repairman. Sometimes the devil is in the details.
- Make sure your plug is fully plugged into the socket.
- Check if the socket is working. You can do it by connecting another device to it.
- If a fridge is connected with an extension cord, check the cord for normal operation.
- Opening the fridge door should switch on the illumination lamp, the front panel display (if available), or any other external indication.
Faulty compressor motor
The compressor is a major component of the cooling system and its fault can result in serious operation problems. This is one of the common reasons why a fridge is not cooling.
Signs of a faulty compressor
- The motor keeps buzzing, but the fridge is not cooling. The food remains warm, but the light turns on with the door open.
- The motor switches off a few seconds after switching on. This may indicate motor overload or overheating.
- The fridge is working with excessive noise or vibration.
Compressor check
- Power off the fridge for 5 minutes.
- Find the compressor. It is usually located at the bottom rear part of the fridge and looks like a black metal cylinder with pipes and cables.
- Turn off all the background noise, plug the fridge in the socket, and listen to it. If you hear a click, it may indicate thermal relay actuation that protects the compressor from overheating and high current in the windings. It may be caused by an issue with the cylinder block or missing refrigerant, as well as a short circuit in the compressor winding. In this case, we recommend calling a service center for further diagnosis and repair.
What to do
If you find issues at any inspection step, the compressor is likely to be repaired or replaced. Carrying out a complete check without a multimeter is difficult, and in case of any doubts you should better call a qualified specialist.
Faulty defrost heating element
When a fridge is working, a thin ice layer builds up on the freezer evaporator. To avoid this, the heating element (defrost heater) switches on and off occasionally to clean off the ice from the evaporator. The water flows through the tube to the compressor plate and evaporates there. The defrost sensor switches off the heater as soon as all the ice melts, and the fridge can keep on working as usual. The main reason for a faulty heating element is a breakage.
Signs of a faulty heating element
- Ice formation in the freezer and increased temperature in the fridge.
- The fridge is not working, but the freezer is fine.
Heating element check
If you notice one of the above-mentioned signs and no water is running off the drain pipe, it may indicate the defrost heater fault. The compressor plate should have water drops that indicate the good state of the drain system.
What to do
We recommend calling a specialist for a more precise diagnosis and repair since lack of proper tools makes it difficult to pinpoint the issue with full confidence.
Faulty temperature sensor (thermostat)
When the temperature sensor in the fridge or freezer is faulty, the device cannot measure the temperature correctly.
Signs of a faulty temperature sensor
- The control panel temperature differs from the actual temperature.
- The fridge is not cooling well.
- The fridge is freezing too hard and freezes up the food.
- The compressor works non-stop to reach the required temperature.
Temperature sensor check
- Put any thermometer in a glass of water and put it into the fridge. The water will help to avoid inertia and measure the temperature correctly. The temperature in the fridge should be from 39 to 43°F (approximately).
- Leave the thermometer in the fridge for a few hours and compare the temperature on the thermometer and control panel (if you have one).
What to do
Replace the temperature sensor (thermostat) with a new similar one or call a specialist for help.
Faulty temperature controller
The temperature controller maintains the required temperature in the fridge by controlling the operation of the compressor and other cooling system elements.
Signs of a faulty temperature controller
- Poor grocery cooling in the fridge.
- The compressor can work non-stop or stay off all the time.
Temperature controller check
- Power off the fridge.
- Find the temperature controller. Usually, it’s installed inside the fridge behind the control panel.
- Check the temperature controller contacts for any corrosion or damage.
- A distinct click should be heard when turning the temperature controller axle. No sound indicates a faulty temperature controller.
What to do
Replace the temperature controller with a new one or call a specialist for help.
Clogging of capillary tubes
Capillary tubes are important for the fridge operation as they deliver freon (refrigerant) to the system and build up the required cooling pressure. Over time, waxes formed by oil ingress may build up on the tube walls and result in clogging.
Signs of capillary tubes clogging
- Insufficient cooling.
- Non-uniform frost distribution.
- The compressor works almost non-stop.
Capillary tubes check
- Turn on the fridge and touch the capillary tube (it is soldered in the filter). If a tube is clogged, it will heat up first and start to cool down in 2-3 minutes.
- Wipe the condenser with a wet cloth to remove any dust that slows down gas cooling. Make sure all the condenser tubes are heating up equally (from the top to the bottom).
What to do
Replace the capillary tube and the filter drier. These components are usually replaced together. After replacing the system must be evacuated to remove any air or damp. Then the system is filled with the new freon. That is why it’s easier to call a service center for the specialists to do their work correctly.
Freon leakage
Freon is the cooling agent in fridges and air conditioners. Damaged tubes, worn-out parts, corrosion, low-quality materials, or installation mistakes can result in a freon leak.
Signs of a freon leak.
- Insufficient cooling.
- The compressor is working non-stop.
- Frost deposits or ice can form on the evaporator.
Checking system for freon leak
- Inspect the tubes and connections for visible damage or cracks.
- A specialist can use a pressure gauge to check the pressure in the system. Low pressure indicates a leak. When crimping, an engineer can check the pressure gauge indications. They may also use electronic leak detectors.
What to do
A freon leak requires a qualified repair. Call a professional serviceman.
Faulty fan
A fan is a crucial element of the cold air circulation. The fan blades can stop the motor rotation in case of excessive frost deposits. The reasons could be high humidity in the fridge, an untight door closing, faulty thermostat, clogged or faulty drain line.
Signs of a faulty fan
- Insufficient or non-uniform cooling.
- Constant compressor operation.
- The ice can build up on the walls and other parts of the fridge.
Fan check
- Turn off the fridge.
- Look for the fan installation place. Usually, it’s located behind the rear panel inside the freezer.
- Check the fan for ice and any other obstacles. If you see ice, let it melt naturally or use a blow dryer to speed up the process; be careful and avoid damaging any components.
- Try rotating the blades by hand. If rotation is not free, it may indicate mechanical damage or lack of grease in the bearings.
What to do
- Open the fridge and freezer doors and let the ice melt naturally.
- Find out why the blades are not rotating. If there is no icing on the blades, check the fan for free running (you should be able to rotate it by hand).
- If you cannot solve the problem by yourself, call a qualified specialist.
3-way valve not working
A 3-way valve controls the flow of refrigerant in the cooling system. This part is used in single compressor fridges with a "wet" back wall. Such models have two operation modes: cooling only the freezer or both compartments simultaneously. The 3-way valve is responsible for switching between these modes. If the valve cannot switch to the "Freezer cooling" mode, the fridge will stop working.
Signs of a faulty solenoid valve
- Insufficient cooling in the fridge or freezer.
- Increased power consumption.
- The compressor turns on frequently.
3-way valve check
- Power off the fridge and find the 3-way valve. Usually, it is located in the rear part of the fridge next to the compressor. Check the valve for any visible damage or corrosion.
- Carefully listen to any sounds coming from the valve when turning the fridge on and off. If no clicks are heard, it may indicate a fault.
What to do
The valve must be replaced – we recommend calling a qualified specialist.
Clogged condenser drain
A condenser drain is a small hole with a pipe located at the back wall of the fridge. The drain is used to remove excessive damp formed inside the compartment. The water condensed as a result of different temperatures in and out of the fridge flows down through this hole to a special plate on the compressor and evaporates from it. If the condenser drain is clogged, the damp builds up inside the fridge and may cause increased temperature or other issues.
Signs of a clogged drain
- The compartment temperature is more than usual.
- The water collects at the fridge bottom or under the vegetable boxes.
- The stagnant water can have a musty smell.
- The compressor works longer and more often than usual.
Condenser drain check
- Check for any collected water at the bottom of the fridge compartment.
- Find the drain hole. Usually, it’s located on the back wall of the fridge just above the bottom.
- Stick a flexible thing (for example, a wire) into the drain hole carefully to check if the passage to the compressor plate is free.
What to do
- Pour some warm water into the drain hole to soften and remove possible clogs.
- Stick a flexible thing (for example, a plastic pipe or wire) into the hole and clean it carefully.
Broken control board (electronic controller)
The control board is responsible for cooperation of all fridge components including the compressor, fan, and cooling system. The most common reason for a board burnout is a power surge, but this issue is less common than the others.
Signs of a faulty control board
- The fridge cannot turn on
- No or non-uniform cooling.
- The light indicators and control panel display are not working or showing false data.
- Constant compressor operation.
- The fridge operation is not changing upon temperature settings change
What to do
- Power off the fridge for a few minutes and turn it on again. This will reset the software and clear temporary errors.
- If the control panel is covered with dust or dirt, clean it carefully with a soft brush or compressed air.
- The control board may require replacement in case visual inspection and restart have no effect. For that, we recommend calling a qualified specialist.
How to avoid future faults
The best way to avoid refrigerator faults is to follow the operation rules.
The most common mistake is defrosting with a knife. This method can damage the refrigerant channels and result in a leak and subsequent repair.
This creates a danger of freon release, tube decompression, and the necessity to replace the evaporator.
Keep an eye on the condenser drain holes, especially on bottom freezer models. Clean off the dust from under and behind the fridge for better air circulation and compressor fault prevention.
Do not use the fridge at low temperatures to avoid compressor overheating, especially if the ambient temperature is high. Keep the fridge door closed to retain the frost.